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 What is you 'Proper professional mowing technique'?

     The Short answer. When its time to mow i cut the top 3rd of the grass blades.  Generally a mow cycle is 5-8 days however rate of precipitation, tempature, and fertilizer application can shorten or lengthen that cycle.  The top tip of a blade of grass is part that is growing.  That top tip contains a concentration of hormone that tells the plant when to either stop growing or produce new blades. Cutting the tips forces the grass plant to 'spread out' and thicken up resulting in thicker density healthy turf.  Cutting more than the top third often causes the plant to go into root shock which can last anywhere from a couple days to a couple of weeks depending on environmental conditions. A plant in shock produces neither root nor new leaf.  During this time of shock, the plant is virtually defenseless against fungus and disease.  I mow when it its best for your lawn, or at your direction, be that once a week 10 days, once every two weeks, or you can leave it up to us to do whats right for you.

How much do you charge?

A flat 3/4 acre lot, with a couple trees in the yard, a couple mulch beds to trim around and a couple of hard to reach places generally.. about $40-$50. Every yard is a little different. We are known for being detail orientated. After we mow we always blow clippings off any pavement, out of beds, walkways, patios, etc. With Trees that are planted without mulch beds we use either a 'string trimmer' or a push mower to encircle to the outreaching root zone to minimize compaction. We'll never mow over trash blowing it into a thousand little pieces! Thats just wrong. 

What towns do you cover?

Currently we've consolidated our mowing to the following towns, Greenland, Stratham, Rye, Hampton, North Hampton, Portsmouth, parts of Exeter, Hampton Falls and Newfields.

What is Compaction?

    Good soil ought to allow for strong deep root growth, natural release of gases, and absorption of water.  In ideal conditions roots will grow up to about 6-8 inches deep.  The deeper the roots, the further they can chase moisture and soluble fertilizer feeds between rain or irrigations.  Healthy roots systems resist drought and surface tearing.  Your most common soil compaction is caused by repeat foot and vehicle and animal traffic.  Perhaps you've seen grass dying off in certain areas and weeds taking over?  Weeds are in constant competition with grass over fertile soil.  Where grass is struggling, weeds are waiting to fill that niche.  When mowing we alternate patterns as much as possible to evenly distribute the tracks our mowers.  When we aerate we only use core plug machines never the 'needler' type as that type ultimately makes the compaction worse. 

What is Over seeding?

     Over seeding is the systematic application of grass seed over existing turf.  Applying fresh grass seed to your lawn can thicken the existing turf grass by introduction of fertile seed.  Over-seeding with complementary turf species that assist the lawn as a whole to survive and stay green in changing environmental stresses causing die-off or dormantation of predominant grass species.  For example, a 'Sunny Grass Mix' may contain fescue varieties, as well as kentucky blue to help the lawn stay green throughout the wet spring, the scotching summer, and the cool short days of fall.  The best time to over-seed and encourage seed germination, is in the spring and the fall. If starting a new lawn and irrigation isn't available hyrdo-seed or terra-seed will do best again in the moist cool days of early spring and fall. If you're noticing a thinning lawn where it was once health and lush, and it isn't a lawn disease, pests or insects, or bad soil conditions, then every bare spot is potentially a place for weeds to move it, take over, and crowd out turf.  We would never suggest over-seeding unless it is necessary.   

De-Thatching?

     The process of removing the build up of excessive living and dead plant material in the uppermost layers turf that can or will not naturally break down. One half to  five eighths of an inch of thatch is perfectly acceptable.  Generally more than 3 quarters, especially during rainy spells, creates a perfect medium for harmful and deadly fungus and grass killing bacterium and weeds to flourish. Removing the moist upper growth medium often includes removal of surface root that grows in that thatch.  Surface rooting is not good.  A shallow root is very susceptible to drought and solar heat and will eventually send a once healthy lawn into decline.

So if we have a mowing contract for X amount of dollars for X amount of cuts over the season are you going to show up during the middle of a heat wave and run your mower over my turf just for the sake of billing me for that week?
     

   No.  However some weeds, such as dani-loins and thisle survive and grow during drought condition.  If they do release their seeds then rest assured the next time conditions become favorable, those seeds will germinate.  If we don't need to mow then you will not be charged.  You are the boss.  I'm happy to trim things up to keep up apperances, but this is on a case by case basis and its something pre-arranged.  On average we mow 23 times per season.

Whats the deal with grass clipping then? Take'em or Leave'em?

    Leave them, and take them. The grass blade contains, among essential trace elements, up to 40% nitrogen and 95% water.  As the clipping works its way down between blades of grass it shades the topsoil reducing water loss and temperature.  One of the most interesting things I've learned about grass is that it contains a natural herbicide.  This natural herbicide, when released, discourages the growth of most every competitive weed.  I would certainly suggest leaving clippings every other mowing. A healthy lawn is more than just the grass, it is healthy soil.  Healthy soil contains a rich culture of bacteria and living creatures that will consume your clippings adding to the organic component of the soil.

What do about clippings?

     Based on normal 'bagged' volume, they're hauled away. Certainly we will put them in some inconspicuous accessible part of the property if you so wish. Generally its best to leave them where they fall.  I do of course use a blower to remove clippings from the driveway, street, walkways any place where they shouldn't be and a 'bagger' to collect clippings during mowing.  Excess clippings will lead to a layer of thatch, generally though, it make take a couple seasons.

What is Top Dressing?

    Topdressing is the spreading of a thin layer from 1/16 'a dusting' to 1/2 inch of soil or compost material over your turf.  Top-dressing most effective when applied just after core-aeration.  A dusting top-dress of decomposed dry manure, or rich loam will do wonders for your lawn.   Preferably, the best soil to top-dress with is the same soil type used in constructing the lawn in the first place.  If that soil is not available in a small stockpile, then construction sand mixed with fine screened compost will do well.   If you where to think of soil as a living thing full of helpful bacteria, micro and macro organisms it's easy to picture that from time to time they need a little fresh food.  The living element of soil is just as important as the mineral element to promote the symbiotic relationship resulting in healthy turf.

What is Aeration and why should I have to do it?

    Aerationing a process that opens up the soil of the lawn. The machine we use is plug/core aerator.  That machine pulls short round plugs of soil up and out of the lawn creating pores.  Plugs generally range from 2 to 3 inches deep and 3/4 inches wide.  These pores or plug holes are help with a number of lawn problems.  Problems that are solved or greatly helped include compaction, drainage, transferance of fertilizers to the root zone, pores to 'feed' with compost, thatch breakdown, improved air circulation and gas release, aids in deeper root penetration, and its a great way to prepare for a topdressing.   Ideally lawns should be aerated once a year, however once every two years is generally enough.  Keep in mind this, there is no need to remove the plugs, they will break down naturally.  The best time to work on your lawn is right after the aeration.  Soil and debris will eventually migrate filling the holes after the first couple rains.

Why is it such a bad idea to mow in the rain?

   Mowing wet heavy grass causes grass blades, more often that not, to be torn rather than 'cleanly' cut.  Sometimes roots are pulled out of the ground.  Wet clippings cause clumps that are difficult to break apart.  If your grass is tall, wait till it dries out before cutting.  Clumps of wet grass shade out turf and invite unhealthy molds, fungus, diseases, pest, leading to dead spots, yellowing and release ammonia while decomposing.

What can i do about the yellow spots on the lawn from my animal's urine or feces?

A useful trick or home-remedy, is to spray a dilute solution  of common powdered lime and water to neutralize the ammonia being released from the animal droppings.  Repeat applications may be necessary.  Turf damage can go so far as to completely kill your grass in which case reseeding or sodding may be your only option.

Is there any way to speed up the breakdown of my pile of clippings, leaves and yard waste? 

      Composting is the preferred method, how ever there is a short cut.  Add a cup of house hold ammonia to a gallon of warm water and pour it over the pile, turn the pile as you would compost.  The Internet contains a wealth of information on the subject.  As a person who has been composting successfully for over 5 years with out a lot of fancy gadgetry i would encourage someone who is interested in the subject to learn more about it.   Here

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